Ken Legler: Main Halyards

2/21/2003

The tuning controls on Club 420s and Club FJs are pretty basic but very important. Contrary to what it seems with the halyard systems supplied, it is the main halyard that needs to be cranked much tighter than the jib halyard. If the main halyard is even one inch too low, the sail shape in the main is slow. This decreased main halyard tension results in a tighter leech and a more hooked leech. In short, the air brakes are on. Increasing luff tension frees the leech (and releases the air brakes).

Try this land demo around a Club 420 or FJ: Place the boat on land in at least five knots of wind. Raise the main but stop one inch from the top and trim the mainsheet in Have your sailors take a mental picture of the upper leech. Now ease the sheet a bit, tighten the halyard and re-trim the sheet. Most sailors should be able to see this dramatic difference in mainsail shape and leech angle. While you're at it, make the point about good knots.

Note: When rigging in a calm, vertical wrinkles may appear, particularly if the sails are new. As soon as you trim mainsheet in five knots upwind the wrinkle should dissappear. What if it doesn't? Then ease the halyard but only slightly. Start with the halyard tight though, to begin stretching the line and cloth. If the halyard is not tight and the sail looks good in a calm then it will be slow when trimmed and filled. It is faster to have vertical wrinkles in light air than to have an air brake. During a regatta, re-tighten the halyard often, especially after the first rotation when the halyard may have stretched or was never up all the way in the first place.

Ken Legler
Main Halyard Police